Attraction Rides in Vegas (a.k.a. Hell) – Adventures at 900 Feet

It’s not that they made me nauseous. Some do, but that’s not the problem with the attraction rides topping the Stratosphere in Las Vegas.

And it’s not that I’m not normally a thrill ride seeker, even though I probably haven’t been on one in 10+ years before last December.

It’s the fact that I nearly lost my mind in the Stratosphere Tower. Seriously, the three attraction rides atop that particular Vegas landmark are from hell.

Attraction Rides at Stratosphere

Insanity by Michael180, Wikimedia Commons.

Well ok, maybe you can consider one of them somewhat tame, if you’re not too squeamish about heights. We saved that one for last, and it turned out to be ok despite the fact that we were cranked out over 60 feet from the safety of the ledge, tilted in our chairs so that we were facing down on the Strip from 900 feet above, and spun around pretty fast.

Thankfully, no need to vomit.  And after a minute or two, it was almost fun.

That particular thrill is called Insanity – The Ride, and yeah, it was pretty insane considering all of the above factors. But to get the most bang for your thrill-seeking buck, I recommend you do Insanity first, BEFORE you lose your mind on the other rides, and are rendered mentally numb.

Big Shot is the ride that gave me heart palpitations. I didn’t really enjoy being launched 160 feet up in the air like a roman candle. I had visions of not stopping, and hurtling down 160 feet, plus the total length of the Strat, to be smashed into a million itty bitty pieces on the pavement below.

What’s the newest attraction in Vegas? Stupid Tourist Smoothie, running in chunky rivulets into the gutters. Live on Channel 7.

Yeah, it scared me. Particularly those few seconds of lag time at the top when you don’t know when you’ll be shot down again. Or back up. Nice mind game, thrill ride designers! I recommend making this thrill second of the three attraction rides on the Stratosphere.

Save X-Scream for last. This is the one that made me lose my mind. You’ll be harnessed into your seat, a coaster-like compartment hugging a rail. The rail lifts above the platform, you’re tilted down, and then mercilessly shot over the edge of the Tower.

Thrill Rides at Stratosphere

X-Scream by Michael 180, Wikimedia Commons.

Again, visions of not being able to stop.  And more seconds of lag time to ponder stupid fate.

The Stratosphere website compares this thrill ride to a teeter-totter, but the description couldn’t possibly be any further from the truth. It absolutely SUCKED, and I’m never going anywhere near another ride like that again.

What makes this ride so much scarier than other attraction rides or hare-brained thrills I’ve ever ridden or participated in? I suspect it’s the tilting at some unknown speed not listed on the Strat’s website. Whatever the case, it was time to get off the Tower and have a cocktail…

Tip #1: You’ll be asked to stow away purses, hats, etc. in compartments before boarding these ride attractions, for very good reason. It’s all kept safe but if you’re worried about that sort of thing, have a friend who’s not riding hold your stuff.

Tip#2: The 20-somethings on the rides with us could not get enough…they laughed joyously every time I had to re-swallow my heart. I wanted to cut their legs off. But there ARE some crazy people in the world who will love these rides. Maybe you’re one of them?

Thrill Rides Death Grip

My white-knuckled X-Scream reaction...

The Road to Vegas Begins With Peggy Sue’s Diner

Frank Sinatra Lives!

Frank Sinatra impersonator at THEhotel.

I have a love-hate relationship with Vegas. As far as weekend escapes go, Sin City provides all you can stand for great food and entertainment. But beyond those things, I especially like it when east coast family and friends come to visit .  . . it’s kind of fun then to watch the looks on people’s faces when they first experience:

  • The scratchy neon blanket of lights smothering the Strip,
  • The sheer numbers of people walking around zombie-like in the face-melting heat, and
  • Those annoying card flickers, handing out pictures of women who promise to be at your door within 20 minutes, no matter who you are, or where you came from.

I’m sure I had the same blank stare of disbelief the first time I visited Las Vegas. But like most Southern Californians my disbelief quickly turned to disdain and finally, a strange kind of acceptance.

Sin City definitely has some fun aspects to make up for the downsides if you don’t go in the height of summer to get pummeled by the 120-degree temperatures, though. It’s all a matter of finding your balance and choosing the best times for your visit.

So last December I planned a trip back to Las Vegas with a certain amount of trepidation and misgiving. But it seemed like an ideal way to entertain a visitor, and besides, we had a mission in mind: to ride the thrill rides topping the Stratosphere.

But before we get to that crazy, misguided portion of our jaunt, let’s take a little detour via the Mojave Desert along the historic Route 66.  Believe it or not, there’s a lot to see:

World's Largest Thermometer in Baker, CA

This monument to heat measurement is right next to a Bob's Big Boy--not nearly as much fun as Peggy Sue's!

  • The World’s Largest Thermometer in Baker, California
  • Calico, an old silver-mining ghost town
  • Peggy Sue’s Diner

My friend and I stopped at two out of three (we’re saving Calico for another day). And let me just say that Peggy Sue’s just might be one of the highlights of the four hour drive between the City of Angels and the City of Sin.

Why?

Deep-fried pickles for a start. They’re crispy, tart, and loaded with fat and salt. Who can ask for more?

Aside from the old-fashioned comfort food menu though, there’s also a lot of Hollywood memorabilia decorating the place, and a little “Dinersaur” park in the back, giving Vegas-bound drivers an opportunity to stretch their legs.

Peggy Sue's Diner on Route 66You just can’t get that kind of opportunity at any old gas station in Death Valley.

Sure, it’s all pretty cheesy and not for everyone. But it’s a FUN kind of cheesy, and definitely a must see. Diners stuck in the 50s aren’t all that easy to find, after all.

Peggy Sue’s Diner is located in Yermo, CA. You’ll need to take the Ghost Town Road exit from Interstate 15: http://www.peggysuesdiner.com/.

In my next blog I’ll fill you in on how we discovered the world’s largest underpants!

Cornwall & Tintagel Castle – Living Legends

 

Modern Cornwall is beautiful with its ancient beginnings.

Lanyon Quoit Henge in Cornwall, and an old tin mine in the background.

Before I get into how much I loved Cornwall and all there is to see there, let me first explain why I was absolutely driven to go: Mary Stewart’s Merlin trilogy, which begins with The Crystal Cave. I re-read this every couple of years –just because it’s a damn good piece of fiction.

For those of you not familiar with this series, it’s the story of Myrrdn Emrys (Merlin) growing from socially awkward boy to powerful man-magician. And a key part of the saga occurs when Merlin orchestrates the conception of King Arthur, at Tintagel Castle.

I should probably note, this series is actually a quintet, but the magic of the story dwindles and ends in the third book…many people refer to the series as a trilogy.

But back to Cornwall, as it exists today…

Magic Rediscovered in Modern Cornwall

Lamorna Cove, Cornwall

Lamorna Cove in Cornwall

Driving southwest from Somerset and Devon, you’ll feel like you’re entering a different world. The Cornish roads are so narrow there’s only room for one vehicle at a time. If you encounter any oncoming traffic, one of the drivers will have to back up until s/he reaches a turn out to let the other car pass. (Usually, it’s the smaller vehicle that does this…)

Not only are the roads narrow though, they’re also lined with very high hedges. You’ll feel like you’re traveling through a maze sometimes.

But once you get into the more settled areas along the coast, the hedgerows disappear and the terrain becomes a lot more open. You’ll see old tin mines dotting the landscaping, and run across a henge or two.

The coastline itself is dramatic (thus the poetic “Land’s End”), with it’s bluer than blue water. Apparently there’s a high copper content in the sediment, which gives the coastal waters the blue-green hue.

Tintagel Castle Ruins: Not-so-easy Access

Expect to go for a bit of a hike to get to Tintagel Castle in Cornwall. This is the view of the mainland from Tintagel's ruins.

And finally, there’s Tintagel Castle, where Merlin supposedly orchestrated the conception of King Arthur.

Tintagel Revisited

Now according to legend, Gorlois, the Duke of Cornwall, hid his wife Ygraine in Tintagel castle, to keep her safe from King Uther. Tintagel Castle is right on the coast, by the way. Merlin disguised Uther and led him up a narrow, treacherous path along the cliff face to gain entrance to the fortress. According to Mary Stewart, it was a dark and stormy night. Of course.

In real life, Tintagel Castle ruins lie on a small island-like land mass jutting out from the mainland and you’ll have to walk a narrow path and cross a bridge of stairs to get to them. Thankfully, the bridge is in good order and it’s a much safer trek than the one Uther supposedly made in the fifth or sixth century.

Challenging Stairs at Tintagel

It's a rough climb up to Tintagel. But the handrails are sturdy!

Still, this is not a hike for the faint of heart. It’s a long walk, and the stairs from the bridge up to the top of the peninsular mountain where the ruins lie, are fairly steep.

Of course, the stairs aren’t comfortable to climb either, because the originals weren’t cut in ergonomic times. The newer ones are fine, but some of the older ones really challenge your sense of balance. They’re roughly hewn and dangerous.

Bridging the mainland to Tintagel Castle.

Why does this bridge remind me of a Monty Python movie?

Most people in average condition won’t have a problem, but if long walks and steep stairs really aren’t your thing, you might want to wait in the car. Go explore Tintagel Parish instead – it’s very picturesque.

Once you arrive though, the views of the Cornish coastline are well worth it. And what’s left of the castle is worth the walk too, with interesting stone structures and a few walls still standing.

The castle courtyard is probably the most interesting with its arched entryways and tiny peephole windows. You’ll also get to see a tunnel leading to a food storage area, a well, medieval graffiti, and gun fort for the latter days, among other things.

Tintagel Castle Courtyard Wall - Cornwall
Few walls still stand at Tintagel Castle. This archway is the main entrance into the courtyard.

Archaeologists date the site to 3rd or 4th century AD, and they believe the land belonged to a Celtic monastery or prince of the region. However, they’re still digging up buildings, and learning that the site was used as an ancient Mediterranean trading post as well.

TIP #1: Restrooms and snacks are available on the mainland. Be sure to take care of your bodily needs before you cross the bridge to the ruins.

TIP #2: Please DO be careful on those treacherous stairs!

Coastline around Tintagel in Cornwall.

View of Cornwall coast line from the ruins at Tintagel.

Ossuary at Sedlec in Kutná Hora | Keeping Up With the Bones-es

Ok, it was time to venture out of Prague, one of the most perfect cities I’ve ever seen. Prague is gorgeous in its proper lines and uptight architecture. And the natives work hard to keep it clean and everything running smoothly.

View from Charles Bridge Tower in Prague

View of the orderly buildings and Vltava River, from the Charles Bridge.

Seriously, if you have a chance to stop in Prague, make sure you do so. The impressive Charles Bridge itself will be worth the trip.

Anyway…

We were in the Czech Republic belatedly celebrating my birthday and the boyfriend and I decided it was time for a little tour into the Bohemian countryside. I was dying to see the Bone Church (pun half-heartedly intended)…and since this happens to be Halloween weekend, I thought it’d be the perfect time to tell you about the bone collection.

The ossuary is located in Sedlec, a small town in the Kutná Hora district about an hour’s drive east of Prague, at a rather tiny Roman Catholic church called the Church of All Saints. To get a look at the bones, you’ll have to descend a flight of stairs into the lower chapel.

Don’t be afraid. Once you get down there, you will be positively amazed.

Why? Because there are bones EVERYWHERE. Piled up in pyramids, dangling from light fixtures…actually, they ARE the light fixtures. They’re used to hold up candles, decorate the altar and adorn the walls.

And why is there such a massive collection of skulls, femurs and tibias all in one place? Because the Bohemians and many of their European neighbors decided little, old Sedlec is a holy place for burial.

Sedlec Church of All Saints' Towers of Bones

There were four of these pyramidical constructions at the Sedlec ossuary.

Crusading Times

It all started with a local abbot who was sent to Palestine in the 13th century. He brought back some soil from the Holy Land – Golgotha, actually – which he devoutly sprinkled around the abbey cemetery. Apparently European Christians thought this was just great, and so they all wanted to be buried in this particular cemetery, covered in holy dirt, if possible.

Shouldn’t be a problem, should it? Well, enter stage left, the Black Death — and all of a sudden it became a huge problem, as the monastery’s cemetery quickly ran out of burial space. And so the good brothers buried bodies wherever they could.

Which still didn’t stop the dying from wanting to be buried there. No one knows exactly how many skeletons rest in the Church of all Saints, but the current estimate is approximately 40,000.

The Bone Church in Sedlec sports macabre decorations.

Garlands of skulls stream throughout the chapel.

Rumor has it that the initial church was built in the 15th century, and that a semi-blind monk was assigned the task of stacking the bones in an orderly fashion. But it wasn’t until the 19th century when someone decided to get creative with the pieces.

If you’d like to read more about the ossuary at Sedlec in Kutna Hora, go here: http://www.kostnice.cz/. Choose your language: Czech, English or German?

Definitely visit the site before you get to Sedlec though. We missed the fact that the bone-arranging artist (a wood carver named František Rint) signed his work – in bones of course – on one of the chapel walls.

Bone Chandelier at Sedlec Ossuary in Czech Republic.

I would expect a chandelier like this at Vlad the Impaler's castle...not in a small church in the Czech countryside.

Bhaktapur Nepal | City of Culture & Town of Devotees

Bhaktapur Nepal - Residents off to work?

One of the gates to the city of Bhaktapur Nepal.

We arrived around 8:30 on a January morning to a city enshrouded in mist – one of the most magical sights I’ve ever experienced.

We came from the west, having spent a night in Kathmandu about 10 miles away; and the van we hired let us off at a ticket booth just outside one of the gates. The entrance fee cost US$10, which I only remember because the ticket was printed specifically in English, with a US price listed on top.

Bhaktapur Nepal the Town of Devotees

Early morning fog added a magical quality to Bhaktapur Nepal.

The residents of Bhaktapur were just coming awake, though the shrines and temples all stood silent and somnolent.  Though everything seemed to lie still, we could sense movement here and there. People hurrying off to work, the farms, or wherever they go so early on a January morning.

Even the 3 year old who insisted on accompanying us on this day trip seemed to feel the peace of the place. He was unusually quiet for a young person just coming out of his terrible twos – for the first hour anyway.

As the fog rose and dissipated, the city woke up and came alive. Architectural detail became more apparent, and we all could readily appreciate the craftsmanship of each individually carved window and each tribute to the deities.

Bhaktapur is an ancient city, and once served as the capitol of Kathmandu Valley in the 14th through 16th centuries, which may explain so much artistic splendor in the architecture.  However, a 1934 earthquake destroyed many of the temples and buildings in Durbar Square. The German government helped restore much of the city in the 70’s and 80’s, reviving many medieval structures.

Exploring a Bhaktapur Nepal residential neighborhood.

A winding passage through a Bhaktapur residential area.

Despite the significant help from Germany, Bhaktapur inhabitants are very self-sufficient. They farm the surrounding countryside and continue to chip away at ancient stone and wood to maintain the temples and homes within the city walls.  You’ll see scaffolding everywhere, as restoration continues on.

Most of the workers and Bhaktapur inhabitants are Newars, a people grouped by the common language called Nepal Bhasa. The Newaris primarily practice Hinduism, though about 15 percent are Buddhists.

TIP #1: When traveling India and Nepal, don’t be surprised to see specific ticket windows for the natives and separate windows for foreigners or tourists. The fees will differ too.

TIP#2: Some areas of Bhaktapur are off limits to non-Hindus. These areas will be guarded, so no worries about accidentally violating someone’s sacred space.

NOTE: You should know that there are THREE Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley, one at Bhaktapur, one in Patan, and the third in the city of Kathmandu itself – and that UNESCO (or the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) lists the entire valley as a World Heritage Site.

Travel Nepal for Real Adventure

Travel to Nepal from Darjeeling requires a stop at customs.

Indian Customs, where we found out about the transportation strike in Nepal.

If you plan to travel Nepal, keep in mind that your plans could change at any given moment. That’s what happened to my friends and me – a group of four adults and three very small children weaving our way from Darjeeling, India through mountains, forests and hairpin turns to make our way over the border into Nepal.

It was going to be a three or four hour ride by van to get to the border, and then another 30 minute ride through the Nepalese countryside to Bhadrapur Airport to catch a flight on Yeti Air to Katmandu.  Piece of cake, right?

Well not really.

Travel to Nepal Might Entail Surprises

Bicycle rickshaws take travelers to Nepal to points beyond the border.

Before crossing over we made a customs stop, where we learned that there was a transportation strike in Nepal. That meant no motor vehicles on the roads, unless you were driving a police car or ambulance.

So what were our options? Basically, bicycle rickshaw. With three very small children and an Everest-sized mountain of luggage (my friend, a Sherpa I met in California in fact, was returning to Nepal to visit family. So we all had gifts and other paraphernalia stuffed in with our bulky winter clothing). Rickshaws were pretty much our only choice. Being the least maternal of the group, I got most of the duffel bags in my ride – the other adults got a piece of luggage or two and a kid.

Anyway it turned out to be the BEST tour of Nepal I could ask for. This was even better than seeing the Taj Mahal in India! Why?

Rickshaws a great way to travel Nepal.

My rickshaw driver seemed to be the fastest...

Yes, it was initially annoying and uncomfortable, but I got to experience parts of the countryside I would have missed had I been sitting in a van, primarily because bicycle speed allows you time to see, hear and smell a lot more of everything.

I had time to sit back and enjoy the ride through the forest, or through farm country. I waved to small children on the roadside like I was royalty. I shot a whole bunch of photos, breathed in the smell of yak shit and somehow enjoyed every moment.  It really was unforgettable.

You want to know the best part? Despite arriving at Bhadrapur Airport about two hours late, we still made our flight because it too, had been delayed.

Travel Nepal by rickshaw for a closer look into day-to-day living.

Farm life in the Nepalese countryside.

Now, I will have to admit that it was fairly easy to make the best of a bad situation in this case: Traveling with a native who speaks several of the regional languages, does all of the negotiating for fares, and deals with the customs officers…takes a lot of pressure off me…all I had to do was be patient and follow directions.

Still, I’d like to believe I would have enjoyed this trip just as much had I been alone or traveling with non-natives. The experience was just too special for me to doubt it.

TIP #1: Befriend a Sherpa whenever you can. You’ll be glad you did, for many more reasons than for having a great guide in Nepal.

TIP#2: Transportation logistics are often a problem in India and Nepal. Stay flexible and have a back-up plan in case things go awry.

Traveling Istanbul – Top 3 Must Sees

Hello, Travel Friends!

We’re back to talking about Istanbul, my favorite city in the whole world, thus far. I think it’s the ever-evolving history of it that is most fascinating for me. And here are simply some things that absolutely cannot be missed if you’re in Istanbul, even if you’re there for just one day.

 

Hagia Sophia Istanbul - Christian art restoration.

Archaeologists slowly revealing hidden art, covered over by the Ottomans in the 15th century.

 

#1. Hagia Sophia

The locals spell it Aya Sofya, and it has been standing since the Byzantine period, through earthquakes, political change and religious reformations. Who knows how much longer it will survive? One giant ground shaking and it can all wind up a pile of rubble tomorrow.

Not that I truly believe that. I have a feeling the old girl will be around for a few more centuries at least. Still…one never knows.

When I was there in 2006, archaeologists were uncovering all of the old, Christian art which had been painted over by the Ottomans in the 1400s as they converted it into a mosque. You’ll probably get to see a lot more than I did.

TIP: Hire a local guide hanging around the entrances – you’ll get interesting bits of information as you walk around. I picked the oldest one of the bunch: a charming, sweet man who kept pulling my leg the whole tour, to see if I would believe every single thing he said. Luckily, he had a tell: a slight twitch of the lips and a glint in the eye. I THINK I always knew when he was joking!

#2. Turkish Bath

The second thing you must see (and do) is a hamam. Yes, go get a Turkish bath.

The attendees will scrub you down to the deepest layer of skin, removing dirt you had no idea you’d been carrying around for years. Then they’ll anoint you in lotion and by the time you’re finished you’ll feel like a new-born baby.

Seriously, after the rough scrubbing part of it, I felt like a very small child being given a bath by my mother. All I wanted to do was sleep for several hours…and I did.

TIP: My guidebook at the time said that the natives go naked at the hamams. My guidebook lied. All of the other women (Turkish and Tourists) kept their panties on, so bring a pair you don’t mind getting wet, and then bring another pair to change into afterwards. Unless you like walking around in wet panties.

 

 

Jewelry area at Istanbul Grand Bazaar.

The Grand Bazaar Istanbul jewelry section, but where are all of the women?

#3. Shop & Talk

The third thing on the MUST DO list is the Grand Bazaar, grand-daddy of all souks of the world. It’s massive, and you’ll probably get a little lost wandering the halls. Don’t panic, it will be worth it. And you’ll notice that the Grand Bazaar is divided up in sections, the gold sellers in one, textiles in another, etc. etc.

Anyway, it wasn’t the size and the great selection of shoes that most impressed me. It was the people doing business there, many of whom invited me to have a cup of tea and chat. Some of them just wanted to practice their English and others were truly interested in American lifestyles. Either way, I was content to be social, even though I practically exploded my bladder in the process.

This was how I found out about the required army service for young Turks, and how most of the natives serve the green apple tea to the tourists, but drink plain tea themselves.

TIP: Istanbulis don’t really like to talk politics with the tourists.

Anyway, aside from great conversations, I also wound up with a fantastic new purse, some souvenir items, and a fabulous pair of shoes. No problem mixing business and pleasure in the Grand Bazaar. Be prepared to bargain and be prepared to walk away from the goods if you’re not getting the price you want. You’ll figure it out.

Dodging Istanbul Carpet Salesmen & Conquering Fears of Traveling Alone Part 2

 

 

Many Istanbul carpets for sale.

This 200 year old Turkish carpet costs thousands...

 

Ahhh, the Istanbul carpet salesmen. They are a pain in the butt and they are EVERYWHERE.  And they have insidious ways of getting you into their stores, as you shall soon see.

Turkish carpets are gorgeous, and there are many styles and traditions wrapped up in the weave. But they can also cost hundreds, thousands and tens of thousands of dollars, so they’re not really in my budget. Somehow I wound up with two of them.

Why? Because of the damn carpet salesman, that’s why! Oh, and I’m sure my over-willingness to “be nice” had something to do with it too. Turns out there are some common sense tactics you can employ to avoid the situation altogether. I wish I knew before I went to Istanbul!

Here’s how they’ll approach you:

  1. “Good Morning! You are an American, are you not? What state are you from?” A friendly conversation ensues, followed by an invitation to have a cup of tea in the store. Tends to happen as you’re passing by a storefront.
  2. When sightseeing, watch out for the guys offering helpful information: “Do you know why the Blue Mosque has six minarets?” This helpful native proceeded to tell me a convoluted story about the Turkish word for six, “alti” getting mixed up with the word for gold, “altin”. And so poor Sultan Ahmed I had his orders misconstrued and the Blue Mosque wound up with six, tiled minarets instead of four gold ones. Apparently having six is presumptuous, because the mosque in Mecca has seven. (Wouldn’t four gold ones be just as audacious?)   Anyway, I wound up with a carpet, because this guy was just so darn helpful and informative, I couldn’t say no to stopping in at his cousin’s store. And what’s even more amazing is that the cousin with the store laughed when I asked him about the six vs. gold story. So. Sometimes you get good information. Other times you get a new carpet.
  3. Watch out for hidden stops on guided tours. Yep, I signed up for a tour of the city with a cruise down the Bosporus. The tour was informative and well worth the money, but it also included a stop at a high-end carpet store. Thankfully I was able to truthfully say I had already purchased two carpets and was not interested in a third. Whew!

 

No escape from Istanbul carpet salesmen...not even on the Bosporus tour.

You'll need the Fortress of Europe to protect you from circling Istanbul carpet salesmen!

 

Ok, so what have I learned about dodging the carpet salesmen? Don’t be so damn smiley and approachable. If you don’t make eye contact with anyone your vacation budget will fare a lot better.

Most of the residents and shop owners in Istanbul are pretty friendly…but they also want your business.  Once I learned how to walk down the street without looking like a “mark” no one bothered to approach me again.

In my next blog I’ll tell you about the fabulous time I had at the Grand Bazaar—spending and socializing on MY terms…

Istanbul – Conquering Fears of Traveling Alone Part 1

 

Istanbul - Fairly safe for women traveling alone.

Istanbul carpet weaver at her loom.

 

“Where are you going so early?”

It was only 7:30 in the morning and I hadn’t eaten breakfast or had any coffee yet. It was also my first day in Istanbul and I was still jet lagged after arriving at my hotel around 1 a.m. But I was too excited to sleep.

So needless to say, I was a bit surprised to be addressed directly, and in perfect English.

I looked over to see an Istanbuli man hosing down the sidewalk in front of his restaurant.

“I’m going to the Haghia Sophia,” I said.

“But it is not open yet. Nothing is open yet, it’s too early. You should go after ten.”

I thanked him, and we continued to chat, while I kept wondering where he learned to speak English so fluently.  Finding out that so many Istanbul residents are actually very fluent in English and a number of other languages wasn’t my first pleasant surprise.

My first pleasant surprise occurred the night before, when I realized my hotel did not send the van to pick me up from the airport. Ok…maybe that wasn’t really a surprise, and maybe it wasn’t so pleasant either. And though I tried calling the hotel, no one was answering the front desk phone after midnight.

All I could do was walk outside and ask a taxi driver how much it would cost to get to my hotel in Sultanahmet—or Old Istanbul. He quoted me a price of 26 Turkish lira. I jumped in the cab, and off we went.

 

Old Istanbul - The Blue Mosque in the Sultanahmet District

Blue Mosque in the morning, in Old Istanbul.

 

I tried paying attention to where we were going, but it was impossible. And I was amazed by how many people I saw lounging around having picnics in the parks by candlelight.

After about 30 minutes of driving around and getting mentally lost I figured if I hadn’t been kidnapped by then, I wasn’t going to be. So I settled back and let the man drive. He hadn’t said a word since we started off.

Finally, we wound up in a very different part of the city. You could tell by how narrow the roads got, and we were suddenly making steeper climbs here and there, with a few hairpin turns thrown in for good measure. There were a lot of old stone buildings too – the first signs that we were now in Old Istanbul.

My driver stopped to converse in Turkish, with a man on the street. I get a little neurotic when I’m sleep deprived, and so thoughts of Ottoman prisons entered my head, as I imagined the conversation, “Hey how much you want for this white girl? She’s American.”

Then he turned to me and asked for the address of the hotel again. I nearly jumped out of my seat. But it turns out he was just lost—and the streets in Old Istanbul are not clearly marked. Twice more he asked for direction, and eventually we arrived.

So what did this little drive into Old Istanbul cost me? There was no meter in the cab, another thing that was vaguely worrying me during the ride. So I handed the man 30 TYL, thinking a 4 lira tip would be sufficient. He handed me some change, which I tried to refuse, telling him I wanted to tip him. But he insisted I take the money. When I counted it later, he had actually returned 7 TYL which meant he only charged 23 – making him the most honest cab driver without a pay meter I had ever encountered!

Good things were going to happen in Turkey…I could tell. I considered yelling at the front desk clerk about the “no show” shuttle service when I checked in, but who am I kidding? I’m not that confrontational.

Tip: Not much is open before 9 a.m. in Sultanahmet. But those who want pictures of the city without crowds of people in them should definitely take advantage of those early hours.

Greetings, Travel Friends!

 

A Woman Traveler in Istanbul

View of the Hagia Sophia as seen from the Blue Mosque, in Istanbul.

 

The first thing you should know about me is that I’m a woman traveler who’s been to quite a few places around the globe. We’ll get to exactly where in a minute.

I’ve traveled solo, with a friend or two and in large groups with six small children. (Now THAT was a challenge—if you try to pit them against each other it only leads to very bad things.)

But I’m not unusual. The more I look around the more I discover many other female travelers, some single and some attached, who are not afraid to venture out into exotic lands and places either.

And they go solo, with travel companies, friends, family and others too—no matter what happens romantically, financially or professionally, they somehow find ways to take just one more trip. To stretch the cultural borders. To pack a suitcase and just throw themselves to the winds whenever they find a great airfare to wherever, no matter who is or isn’t going with them.

And that is really what WOWexcursions is all about. We’re a group of women who want to share our experiences and offer up advice when we can. And it won’t matter to us if you’re a woman traveler, a man or canine tagging along for the ride.

You’re welcome to read, hopefully laugh a bit, and comment about your own travel experiences here in the U.S. or abroad…there’s plenty of room below.

We’ll be talking about trips around the U.S. too, griping about the airlines, gushing over great restaurants and commenting on room service, whether we get it in Hawaii, Vegas, D.C. or Delhi.

As for where we’ve been, the list isn’t as long as we’d like it to be. Mine starts like this:

 

Taj Mahal built by Shah Jahan in the 17th century.

History of India is even richer than the Taj Mahal, but maybe not as pretty.

 

  • Australia
  • The Bahamas
  • Czech Republic
  • England
  • Guam
  • India
  • Italy
  • Nepal
  • The Republic of the Philippines
  • Turkey

Lima & Machu Picchu are next on the list. And I hope to get to Moscow soon after that.

I’ll let my fellow travelers (all smart, funny, savvy women) fill in their own lists, there’s no way I could get everything down and they’ve been to way more places. But just to give you a hint, one spent months in Europe on her own, hitting every major destination there.

Another woman traveler currently lives in Sri Lanka and she’s constantly jetting off to places like Cambodia and Japan, the lucky girl!

A third was born in Panama and currently lives in Peru. She’ll have Latin America and other destinations thoroughly covered.

Last, you’ll hear from guest bloggers, just as soon as we can convince them to write and share for no pay! (We’re attempting to bribe them with fine, but slightly used Indian silks and Peruvian chocolates, but this may take a while.) The women we have in mind have been to Egypt, Morocco, Jordan, China and Queens, so expect insightful information about all of these exotic places soon.

Anyway, stick with us Travel Friends, there’s plenty of room on this ride for all of us…And again, your travel experiences are important too. Experience something funny, enlightening, heartbreaking? Tell us about it!

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